its not pure land F/X question, but need help
Dear expert Irrigation designers,
if you ever came to a plan that trees coming in an irrigular lawn(sod/seed) area, how did you deal with it?
whtat were the best suggestions for a good irrigation design for the trees and the lawn?
Thanks in advance
Dear expert Irrigation designers,
if you ever came to a plan that trees coming in an irrigular lawn(sod/seed) area, how did you deal with it?
whtat were the best suggestions for a good irrigation design for the trees and the lawn?
Thanks in advance
Accepted Answer
Nibal,
I agree wiht both previous messages.
I'd like to suggest two other items.
I've attached a zip file with some details. Feel free to use and modify them as you wish.
I agree wiht both previous messages.
- Separate Valves for each. Treat lawns just as you would without trees.
- At least one RWS or RZWS per tree to encourage deep roots
I'd like to suggest two other items.
- As Jesus mentioned, one need to be careful about over watering. However, while establishing seed/sod a lot of shallow watering is necessary. I've seen this kill trees. So I'd recommend adding a aeration/fertilizer tube to the design. Then if too much water gets in the root-zone (which is common since all of the water goes to the lowest grade and usually the tree pits are the deepest disturbed area they act as sumps) the maintenance personnel can evacuate the water with a pump before the trees roots are exposed to an anaerobic environment which will kill the tree.
- Specify a root guard. They're very inexpensive and will protect the young trunk from weed whips and lawn mowers. A better practice would be to leave a 2' min. clear zone of lawn a from the trunk and to mulch that area. Sometimes this is unacceptable though.
I've attached a zip file with some details. Feel free to use and modify them as you wish.
Hi Nibal,
I see this all the time--artfully swooping, curving, pleasing lawn areas, with ornamental trees. I use (depending on the size of the lawn area) variable-arc nozzles (Rain Bird's HE-VAN) or stream rotary nozzles to cover the lawn, and, on a separate circuit, tree bubblers for the trees. Quite often though, in my area, I'm asked to just let the trees get watered by the lawn irrigation. That works, but it encourages shallow tree roots.
Hope this helps!
Tom
I see this all the time--artfully swooping, curving, pleasing lawn areas, with ornamental trees. I use (depending on the size of the lawn area) variable-arc nozzles (Rain Bird's HE-VAN) or stream rotary nozzles to cover the lawn, and, on a separate circuit, tree bubblers for the trees. Quite often though, in my area, I'm asked to just let the trees get watered by the lawn irrigation. That works, but it encourages shallow tree roots.
Hope this helps!
Tom
Nibal,
I agree with Tom. Depending on the size of the lawn, you can use either rotors, rotary, or spray nozzles. Because it is an irregular shaped area, I would go with anything that can be adjustable. I personally like to use rotatory nozzles or spray nozzles just because of the simplicity of the matched precipitation rates and variable arcs. Matched precipitation rates are a bit "tougher" to match on rotors, but it's possible.
Irrigating trees in a turf area, in my opinion, isn't that bad. You ALWAYS want to separate your lawn zones from trees zones. I would design the turf area as usual and have them on their own valves. I would also design my tree irrigation, whether I go with pop-up bubblers, root zone watering bubblers, drip tree rings, etc,. I would have them on their own valves. Program your lawn areas to be watered for as long as it needs to be on for in your climate zone. (Remember that the water from the turf irrigation will also be used to the tree and can act as supplemental watering to the tree and any shallow roots.) Then, program your tree irrigation to run for for slightly less time than normal since the tree will be using the turf water. The tree irrigation will be used to allow to water to penetrate the soil deeper and encourage deeper root growth. Kinda the best of both worlds. Just be sure to not OVERWATER the tree by not taking into account the water from the turf areas.
Hope this helps.
I agree with Tom. Depending on the size of the lawn, you can use either rotors, rotary, or spray nozzles. Because it is an irregular shaped area, I would go with anything that can be adjustable. I personally like to use rotatory nozzles or spray nozzles just because of the simplicity of the matched precipitation rates and variable arcs. Matched precipitation rates are a bit "tougher" to match on rotors, but it's possible.
Irrigating trees in a turf area, in my opinion, isn't that bad. You ALWAYS want to separate your lawn zones from trees zones. I would design the turf area as usual and have them on their own valves. I would also design my tree irrigation, whether I go with pop-up bubblers, root zone watering bubblers, drip tree rings, etc,. I would have them on their own valves. Program your lawn areas to be watered for as long as it needs to be on for in your climate zone. (Remember that the water from the turf irrigation will also be used to the tree and can act as supplemental watering to the tree and any shallow roots.) Then, program your tree irrigation to run for for slightly less time than normal since the tree will be using the turf water. The tree irrigation will be used to allow to water to penetrate the soil deeper and encourage deeper root growth. Kinda the best of both worlds. Just be sure to not OVERWATER the tree by not taking into account the water from the turf areas.
Hope this helps.
Accepted Answer
Nibal,
I agree wiht both previous messages.
I'd like to suggest two other items.
I've attached a zip file with some details. Feel free to use and modify them as you wish.
I agree wiht both previous messages.
- Separate Valves for each. Treat lawns just as you would without trees.
- At least one RWS or RZWS per tree to encourage deep roots
I'd like to suggest two other items.
- As Jesus mentioned, one need to be careful about over watering. However, while establishing seed/sod a lot of shallow watering is necessary. I've seen this kill trees. So I'd recommend adding a aeration/fertilizer tube to the design. Then if too much water gets in the root-zone (which is common since all of the water goes to the lowest grade and usually the tree pits are the deepest disturbed area they act as sumps) the maintenance personnel can evacuate the water with a pump before the trees roots are exposed to an anaerobic environment which will kill the tree.
- Specify a root guard. They're very inexpensive and will protect the young trunk from weed whips and lawn mowers. A better practice would be to leave a 2' min. clear zone of lawn a from the trunk and to mulch that area. Sometimes this is unacceptable though.
I've attached a zip file with some details. Feel free to use and modify them as you wish.
Many thanks Tom, Jesus & Seaweed,
I appreciated all your suggestions, it helped a lot..
Seaweed,
Thanks for the details..and i have few question,
1- Does the feeder tube equal the root watering system? That's what i understood, is it right?
2- I have 100L trees in the lawn .. how many feeder tubes does each tree need?
3- and to avoid over watering you recommended to add an aeration/fertilizer tube to the design..
how can i add thid in land F/X? i mean whats the exact name of this equipment in the software?
Thanks,
Nibal
I appreciated all your suggestions, it helped a lot..
Seaweed,
Thanks for the details..and i have few question,
1- Does the feeder tube equal the root watering system? That's what i understood, is it right?
2- I have 100L trees in the lawn .. how many feeder tubes does each tree need?
3- and to avoid over watering you recommended to add an aeration/fertilizer tube to the design..
how can i add thid in land F/X? i mean whats the exact name of this equipment in the software?
Thanks,
Nibal
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